Proust’s Muse, the Countess Greffulhe at FIT

Proust's Muse, the Countess Greeffulhe at FITImage courtesy of Museum at FIT

Proust’s Muse, the Countess Greffulhe at FIT

The Museum at FIT presents Proust’s Muse, The Countess Greffulhe, featuring extraordinary fashions from the legendary wardrobe of Élisabeth de Caraman-Chimay, the Countess Greffulhe (1860-1952). A famous beauty celebrated for her “aristocratic and artistic elegance”, the countess was a fashion icon comparable to Daphne Guinness today. Proust’s Muse is based on La Mode retrouvée: Les robes trésors de la comtesse Greffulhe, an exhibition organized in Paris by Olivier Saillard, director of the Palais Galliera, Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris, which is the repository of the countess’s wardrobe. Dr. Valerie Steele, director and chief curator of The Museum at FIT, has organized the exhibition in New York in collaboration with Saillard. She also contributed an essay, “The Aristocrat as a Work of Art”, to the French catalog.

 

Proust's Muse, the Countess Greeffulhe at FITImage courtesy of Museum at FIT

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“The Countess Greffulhe believed in the artistic significance of fashion”, says Steele. “And although she patronized the greatest couturiers of her time, her style was very much her own. Today, when fashion is increasingly regarded as an art form, her attitude is especially relevant.” When Marcel Proust wrote his novel, In Search of Lost Time (À la recherche du temps perdu), the Countess Greffulhe inspired his immortal character, Oriane, the Duchess de Guermantes, of whom he wrote, “Each of her dresses seemed like… the projection of a particular aspect of her soul”.

 

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On display will be the countess’s famous “Lily Dress” (circa 1896), attributed to the House of Worth and photographed by Paul Nadar. Both the design of the dress and the staging of the photograph owed much to the countess’s ideas. The dress’s princess line, for example, was atypical for the time, but was very flattering to her tall, slender figure. The motif of lilies refers to a verse in her honor, composed by the dandy-poet Robert de Montesquiou, who served as the main inspiration for another of Proust’s characters, the Baron de Charlus.

 

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In her correspondence with Montesquiou, Élisabeth Greffulhe confessed, “I don’t think there is any pleasure in the world comparable to that of a woman who feels she is being looked at by everybody, and has joy and energy transmitted to her”. Her fascination with photography, also documented in the exhibition, was related to her desire to fix the image of beauty.
Another highlight of the exhibition is an exotic emerald green and blue robe d’intérieur (1897), which epitomizes the countess’s audacious style. She loved to wear green, which complemented her auburn hair.

 

Proust's Muse, the Countess Greeffulhe at FITImage courtesy of Museum at FIT

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In addition to the 28 garments on display, there will be a dozen accessories  shoes, hats, fans, gloves, and stockings – including a pair of red velvet high-heeled shoes that evoke one of the most famous scenes in Proust’s novel. A selection of photographs will depict the Countess Greffulhe and important contemporaries, including Robert de Montesquiou and Marcel Proust. Finally, there will also be an ensemble inspired by the Countess Greffulhe and created by the contemporary fashion designer, Rick Owens.

 

Museum at FIT, New York
September 23, 2016 – January 7, 2017

 

more. fitnyc.edu

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