Art Deco fashion | ITSLIQUID

Art Deco fashion

Fashion | April 8, 2019 |

Art Deco fashionImage courtesy of Victoria and Albert Museum

Art Deco fashion
V&A Museum, London

Distinct, elegant and vivid in colour, items from the V&A’s fashion collections reveal the relationship between Art Deco design and the clothing and jewellery of the 1920s and 1930s. From Jeanne Lanvin’s haute couture to the bold geometric jewellery of Raymond Templier, Art Deco’s multiple influences can be traced in their form, cut and detail. Jeanne Lanvin‘s 1930s evening dresses were the epitome of Art Deco elegance, capturing a Hollywood-esque sense of glamour. Lanvin frequently combined simple, long, fluid forms with severe geometry, characteristic of the Cubism-influenced strand of Art Deco design. Her use of reflective satin echoed Art Deco’s fascination with light and surface sheen.

                g

Art Deco fashionImage courtesy of Victoria and Albert Museum

                          g

One of the finest examples in our collection is Lanvin’s bias cut evening gown in purple satin. A huge collar based on a rectangular form is made of triangles and squares. The collar is covered with narrow parallel rows of stitching that not only reinforce the fabric, allowing the collar to keep its shape, but also serve a decorative purpose. By using one strong colour, Lanvin achieved a simple, yet sculptural look. A tennis dress, designed, made and worn by Miss Hepburne Scott, shows how Art Deco also worked its way into more functional fashion. The sleeveless, low-waisted dress, made of white linen with green linen appliqué, leans heavily on geometry, with its square neck, neat pleats and chequered pattern.  Art Deco’s love of geometric form also absorbed into jewellery, replacing the intricate detailing of the past. In 1930, the Parisian jeweler, Raymond Templier (1891 – 1968), commented in the Goldsmiths “Journal”. As I walk in the streets I see ideas for jewellery everywhere, the wheels, the cars, the “machinery of today”. His bold, abstract designs evoked the dynamism of modern urban culture, earning him the reputation of “architect of the jewel”. At the end of the 1920s, an all-white look became popular. Icy combinations of diamonds, rock crystal and platinum came to the fore, with geometric, minimalist rings illustrating the severity of Art Deco design. Platinum became a favoured material, because its strength allowed minimal quantities of metal to be used, giving the stones the greatest possible prominence.

               g

Art Deco fashionImage courtesy of Victoria and Albert Museum

             g

In the early 1920s, Russian artist Natalia Gonchorova worked for the Maison Myrbor, an exclusive shop owned by Italian Marie Cuttoli, selling fashion, rugs and curtains designed by the international avant garde. Goncharova (1881 – 1962) had a long career with Sergei Diaghilev’s Ballets Russes, which were a major influence on Art Deco. Goncharova produced astonishing costumes for Diaghilev, but like many Russian refugees in Paris, she also designed dresses. Her exquisite silk evening dress, with silk and velvet appliqués and metal thread, bound with lame, strongly reflects her work for the ballets and her Russian heritage. Another striking garment, designed and made for Maison Myrbor, is a coat worn by Miss Emilie Grigsby (1876 – 1964), a wealthy independent American who came to England from New York. The wide, square coat is made from white wool embroidered with gold thread and is largely inspired by African art and Eastern cuts, illustrating the early 1920s vogue for exoticism.

             g

Art Deco fashionImage courtesy of Victoria and Albert Museum

                           g

The close realtionship between fashion and the wider arts can be seen in the portfolio of Sonia Delaunay. The portfolio is a facsimile of a collection of Delaunay’s watercolour designs for textiles and clothing. It includes poems and texts by various avant garde writers, which praise or relate to Delaunay’s work in some way. The facsimile represents the way in which, even at the time, designers such as Delaunay were recognised in Paris for their value to the wider public. The recurrence of zig-zags and Eastern-inspired shapes are very resonant of the Art Deco aesthetic. Art Deco’s artistic sensibility can be further seen in the hand-painted plaster mannequin head, made in 1925. Its elongated features and blue-tinged skin recall the work of artists, Amedeo Modigliani (1884 – 1920) and Henri Matisse (1869 – 1954). The mannequin is typical of those displayed at the 1925 Paris Exhibition, which saw a new generation of avant garde-inspired mannequins presenting luxury fashion in exclusive boutiques.

morewww.vam.ac.uk

            g

Art Deco fashionImage courtesy of Victoria and Albert Museum

Are you an artist, architect, designer? Would you like to be featured on ITSLIQUID platform? Send an e-mail to info@itsliquid.com or fill the form below

RELATED POSTS


GERHARD RICHTER: CAGE PAINTINGS

Art | January 21, 2021

Gerhard Richter’s Cage paintings (2006) will remain at Gagosian Beverly Hills until April 3. They were a cornerstone of the artist’s retrospective, Gerhard Richer: Painting After All, at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York last year. In conjunction with this key group of six paintings, a new group of drawings created by Richter on consecutive days during the summer of 2020 is being shown for the first time. Read more


LEE BUL: UTOPIA SAVED

Art | January 20, 2021

Lee Bul (b. 1964) is an artist based in Seoul, South Korea. Trained as a sculptor during the period of social and political upheavals of the 1980s, she started off her artistic career with performative pieces that incorporated wearable soft sculptures. In the 1990s she gained international recognition with a series of provocative works, including her scandalous installation of fresh fish left to decay and her Cyborg sculptures, hybrids of machine and organic forms. Read more


National Museum of Energy and…

Architecture | January 17, 2021

he MUNET (National Museum of Energy and Technology) is one of the most important institutions created in Mexico in the last 50 years. A project by the Federal Government, the building is situated in the heart of Mexico City's most important park-the Bosque de Chapultepec. Read more


CALL FOR ARTISTS: CANVAS |…

Calls | January 17, 2021

ITSLIQUID Group, in collaboration with YMX Arts, is pleased to announce the open call for the exhibition MIXING IDENTITIES, third appointment of CANVAS - London International Art Fair. Curated by Arch. Luca Curci, MIXING IDENTITIES will be presented in London at THE LINE Contemporary Art Space from December 03, 2020 to January 15, 2021. Read more


Sign up for our Newsletter.

Enter your email to receive our latest updates!