Re-Thinking of Fashion in Research and Artist collaborating development for Urban Manufacturing
The research project Re-FREAM is exploring the interaction between the domains of fashion, design, science, craft and technology, promoting a space for co-creation and co-research, where experimental projects are connecting artists with scientists and technologists for better human centered and sustainable solutions. During the ARS ELECTRONICA 2020, the results of the first round of co-creation residencies were presented online and are now available on the Re-FREAM website. Until September 30th, the project is looking for artists and designers to co-create innovative fashion concepts together with researchers using novel production technology in a second open call.
Fashion is an example of lasting change, reflecting the mutable Zeitgeist of a complex society; it is the art and the related design discipline that most effectively transmits the languages and messages of our contemporary culture. Fashion can, thus, also be a fundamental attitude of any human to act on the surrounding reality in order to shape it and essentially be a “change-making” action. To tackle the recent challenges of the fashion industry, ten artists and designers were awarded to be part of the Re-FREAM journey during the first call of the program in 2019.
They were given access to technology, scientists’ knowhow, a growing community of “re-thinkers” and a grant of EUR 55.000,- With a focus on the future of urban manufacturing of fashion, the research was carried out at three different European scientific hubs (Berlin, Linz, Valencia). Each hub is dedicated to one area of research: additive manufacturing, smart textiles and sustainable finishing.
During the ARS ELECTRONICA 2020, the results of these residencies were presented online. Following the motto of the festival In Kepler’s Gardens – A global journey mapping the ‘new’ world, the ten teams showed the outcomes of their 10-month journey on co-creation between art and technology in the Re-FREAM Garden, available under https://ars.electronica.art/keplersgardens/fashion/. The presentations illustrated the potential of combining art with technology, crafting and sciences. They also looked at fashion from an uncomfortable perspective and opened up new spheres for sustainability and diversity with various talks and positions of artists.
Digital Vogue by Julia Körner
Julia Körner is absolutely specialised in digitally crafting and like Ganit Goldstein, she is collaborating with 3D-printing company Stratasys. This collaboration is influencing Stratsys’ impact on informing the Haute Couture – a super traditional industry. Within the Re-FREAM project “Digital Vogue – Between Organic and Synthetic Processes”, Julia Körner (JK Design GmbH) researches 3D to 2D to 3D relationships in 3D-printed fashion together with the technology partners Stratasys, Haratech, Profactor and consulting partner Department of Fashion & Technology, University of Art and Design Linz. The research focussed on digitally translating patterns into algorithms and exploring multi-colour 3D printing on fabric, inspired by microscopic imagery of natural artefacts. One of the results was the presentation of the new collection called ARID.
Fragments Garments by Elisabeth Jayot
Elisabeth Jayot’s Fragments Garments circular fashion supply chain aims at inverting the current fast fashion paradigm. To fight the environmental damages created by cheap clothing produced at a fast pace in low-wage countries, the project proposes to relocate within small urban manufacturing units to Fablabs. The goal is the production of garments, moreover designed seamless and modular, based on a worldwide digital pattern trade. This project adds a 4th dimension to the classic reduce, repair and recycle concept by involving the consumer who can easily dismantle and transform clothes according to changing trends, needs or sizes, thus leading to a longer life-span.
Alma by Giulia Tomasello
Alma is a wearable biosensor designed to monitor vaginal fluids. The project strives to support and educate women about their intimate health through technology. The team of designers, anthropologists, scientists and engineers has co-developed with their industrial partners, Fraunhofer IZM and Empa, a new type of underwear capable of measuring vaginal fluid pH. Quantifying vaginal chemistry is an important step to close the medical gender gap and raise awareness about the female body. The entire design process was driven by the data and insights from the Alma meets Flora survey and co-design workshops. The project by Giulia Tomasello contributes to fashion, as it follows a user-centered approach on the one hand and uses technology to re-think the use of textiles and materials on the other hand.
Marinero by Jef Montes
Inspired by the contrast of the sea and plastic pollution, Marinero is the first project of Studio Adaptive Skins – founded by Jef Montes. The focus of Marinero is to create an architectural blueprint that transforms organically over the course of time due to different meteorological conditions. Jef Montes’ approach is really important and interesting for fashion, because he eliminates the traditional processes of the fashion industry: he not only works with nature as a design element, but he creates his own material, which can directly be used in 3D. Therefore no manufacturing company is needed. The design follows the material.